We`re writing this message from an internet cafe in Sapporo. Free soft drinks, coffees, tees, soft ice, miso soup, rice, massage chairs, blankets, slippers, hundreds of book shelve meters of Manga and other comics, open 24/7, place even for sleeping.
The way here didn`t happen exactly how we imagined. Getting ferry tickets to Sakhalin at Vanino railwaystation was a show. People pushing not willing to queue and taking every chance to be the ones getting the tickets. Luckily we had read about it and knew what to do. The cruise normally takes about 20 hours. But there was a storm somewhere near and we had to wait in this bay for more than 30 hours. The whole time all the men were drinking beer and the boat was going up and down. Wonder what it would have been like in the storm.. So after two days we arrived to Kholmsk in Sakhalin. It was not certain that we are allowed to get to Sakhalin without a special visa or something but luckily everythink went just fine.
Sakhalin has a feeling of Canary Islands. But Without the turists and certainly Russian style. Islands history with both Russians and Japanese makes it unique combination of both cultures.
You should be careful what you wish. Tommi wished for some more time in Sakhalin and got it. Misinformation + Bad luck + people not doing their jobs well (so Russian) = us standing in the customs while the ferry leaves to Japan + two extra days in Sakhalin + tens of phone calls around the island, Moscow and Finland + tens of people making their best to make it a big trouble + about 300 euros of expences which insurance company won`t recover.
After all this drama we were so fed up with the country that it was a gigantic pleasure just to step on to the Japanese ferry where ferry crew were bowing to each passenger, with pollite greetings. The boat was very different from eouropean ones. Separate seats/cabins were replaced with shared tatamis. Wakkanai was the harmony we expected from Japan. Clean, slow, cute, compact, and in order. After a night in Wakkanai we started our hitchhike journey towards the south. Spent a night in an Auto-camp-Jo at the sea with Japanese families, bikers and motorists. By the way hitchhiking and camping make Japan very affordable even for low budget. HH is really easy in Japan. Japanese are extremely willing of helping and when you find a good spot you propably won`t have to wait for more than 10-20min for a ride! Feeling as being your host they will buy you soft drinks or ice-cream, take you longer than they`d have to, and if you try to pay they refuse with a Japanese cute modest laugh. One lady even jumped off her car after dropping us off and run stopping cars to get us the next ride..!
We got a host for WWOOFing (volunteering on organic farms) in Hakodate which is in the south Hokkaido. We`ll start there on 10th September and stay there for 2 weeks. Looking forward!
Aideille:
Pienten hankaluuksien jalkeen ollaan vihdoin ihanassa Japanissa. Ruoka on hyvaa, meri kaunis, ihmiset on aivan mielettoman kiltteja ja auttavaisia, kielitaidottomanakin taalla parjaa. 10.9. aloitetaan 2vkon luomufarmi seikkailu. Luvassa ainakin aurinkosahkokasvihuoneen rakennusta, peltotoissa auttelua, ja jotain sellaista. Sitten sen nakee.